It has been a great long discussion for some months now about HR 5034, a bill that would revolutionize the alcohol trade, specifically effecting the small business owners of wine, beer and spirits. I’m a great wine lover, but a self-professed novice compared to the likes of local legends like Darrell Corti, David Berkeley, Michael Chandler, Tom Wark, Steve Heimoff, and many others – and with all of these different icons taking note of this information I have been collecting articles and wanting to get my teeth into them and fully understand the nuances of this break away movement that is brewing (no pun intended) in Washington DC. So here’s my take on how to fully understand what HR 5034 is. What you need to know is what their trying to dismantle, the three-tier system.

The three-tier system is pretty basic, and perfectly stated in a recent Palate Press Article;

“The only consistency, really, is the three-tier system, which exists in some form in every state. In the three-tier system, consumers (with some exceptions) must buy wine from retailers (or restaurants), who must buy from wholesale distributors, who buy from the producers. Retailers can’t buy direct from the winery and consumers mostly can’t either.”

Read More: http://palatepress.com/2009/12/the-future-with-the-three-tier-system/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+PalatePress+%28PALATE+PRESS%2

It’s quite surprising how many people don’t know that there exists “wet” counties – alcoholic beverages are sold with no selling restrictions; “moist” counties – a moist county is a county on the “middle ground” between a dry county (where the sale of alcoholic beverages is prohibited); and “dry” counties -a county in the United States whose government forbids the sale of alcoholic beverages. This is a real, and from all reports, stable matrix of beverage laws for the U.S in 2010.

All these restrictions were put in place by the 21st amendment to ensure that the states could ensure their own liquor laws and provisions. This is where HR 5034 comes in; the long and short of it, as I can surmise, is: by reconstructing the three-tier system the wholesale distributors will create a bottleneck that will ensure all consumers (retail and direct alike) will have to go through them, ensuring a cut of the profit. Here’s the bad side effect: it will eliminate a mass majority of the small business’s that are in this industry because they will no longer be able to sell directly to their consumer. In addition to the loss of this valuable portion of the industry there are also provisions to give the states (not counties) more rights over their liquor laws = example: drying out Chicago of liquor (HUGE Beer Following), which resides in Illinois (a mostly dry state).

This is all bad voodoo for the drinking industry, which leads the question of why would the National Beer Wholesalers Association (NBWA) and the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) be the sponsors behind the bill? It’s all in one word, WHOLESALER. They get a cut in the bottleneck they would create. The bill is also known as the Comprehensive Alcohol Regulatory Effectiveness Act of 2010 or the CARE Act, isn’t that nice.

It made me begin wondering how a bill like this could ever gain support, right? There are far more wineries, distilleries, and breweries than wholesale corporations right? Oh contraire, in a great article by Wine Spectator there was one paragraph that cleared it all up.

“California Congressman Mike Thompson also explained why the wholesaler groups are so powerful a lobbying force in Washington. “There’s only a few of us who represent wine country, and there’s only a couple who represent distilleries,” Thompson said, “but every member of Congress has two, three, four, five, maybe six distributors [in their district].”

End game. There is great support for wholesalers in the states  that could elect the officials that want to keep getting elected, thus ensuring congressional support through a widespread wholesale constituency. So although from recent reports from the Wine Spectators article that “Speaker [Rep. Nancy Pelosi (D-Calif.)],  assured me she’s in opposition to [H.R. 5034] and that House leadership will do everything they can to make sure it doesn’t pass. But it’s important to get the word out there as to how devastating this could be for our areas.””

Although the speaker of the house is one of the most powerful positions in congress, I don’t think this is centered at this point on a bill that (hopefully) won’t make it through, but around the idea that this was a VERY aggressive action taken by the National Wholesalers lobbies. On the oppositions side are the California Association of Wine Grape Growers, Allied Grape Growers, the Wine Institute, WineAmerica, and the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States – but although these associations are dear to my heart, they are not throwing down nearly the same amount of cash in the battle for this bill, it’s all based in grassroots support. My fear is not for now – but the future, this could be just the start of a Tort Wars style battle of liquor laws in the U.S.

So here’s my last word from a consumer, heavy drinker, and a burgeoning policy wonk in the wine trade – I’m so glad I’m living in the more progressive California, and hope the beverage associations I love get brass balls before the next bout.

In efforts to be conscious of drunk wineos on the road Sonoma County planning commissioner Dick Fogg is looking into regulating hours that tasting rooms can be open. In an article put out by the Press Democrat “Tasting rooms or party spots?” is looking at operating hours. Most wineries are only open until around 4pm, but some have had permit waivers that enable them to stay open later. This is an interesting question, as their was recent legislation passed that enabled permit-holding wineries to serve glasses of wine and sell bottles of wine that can be consumed on their premises. This is a breakthrough for some wine operations and a horror for others, all surrounding the same issue: Increasing profit by expanding options at the expense of putting more inebriated people on the road?

There are claims to be made for both sides.

On the side of expanding wine hours/ drinking options – we’re in a recession, and the wine/ tourism market has taken a huge hit, increasing flexibility in the tasting room experience is a way to garner a larger following in all wine markets. In addition to the profit potential, there is the responsibility of the wine drinker to themselves. This is NOT a bar, but a tasting experience, and as the tasting rooms are not looking for or paying for a full liquor licence they should not be held to the same standard that a bar would.

On the side of the regulators – true, tasting rooms are NOT bars, but they are serving alcohol and depending on the room and the attendant, they are serving multiple 1-3 oz pours for FREE, or for a minimal fee. This can have they un-responsable tasting room visitors looking at Napa/ Sonoma as a large bar hopping event! Not good for the area’s reputation, people on the road, or the DUI rate in the counties.

All interesting points to a more complex issue. So only time will tell where regulators, legislators, winery operations will take/ make this issue go.

One of my favorite things to talk about in the wine trade isn’t even the wine is self, there is volumes to say about wine, but less people talk about what the wine is housed in, and how much it affects their buying choices. In a recent article put out by the Financial Times “A fashion duo dresses up a wine label” there is the discussion about taking a mediocre wine label Turning Leaf, by E.J Gallo and updating it’s packaging by adding a bottle wrap, and additional products that promote this label. Now for most people this might be a passing subject of little interest, but it’s more involved than you think. One of the biggest wine consolidation labels in the business is beginning product promotion with cross branding, and this could only be the start. As stated in the article “Matthew Williamson has designed for Coca- Cola, Jade Jagger for Belvedere vodka, and Jean Paul Gaultier for Piper-Heidsieck champagne.” I see this as a new trend in marketing ideas, anything to get the attention of the consumer right, and I’ve got to say the packaging is attractive! If I’m an average woman (70% of the market) cooking dinner for my friends and picking up a bottle of $10 wine, what’s going to catch my eye more and excite my senses? How about a mediocre (I might not know how average this wine is) bottle with a beautiful label on it? and not only is it pretty it’s also has the couture designers label on it (my friends will love this)! Now please don’t understand me, I hate shameless product promotion, but I can admire clever marketing hitting their key demographic, especially when the consumer thinks their the ones getting the deal! Think outside the bottle and you might be surprised what you see

Aside from both of those arguments that can be tenuous on both sides there is also the complication of the new labeling restrictions, which keep increasing on what should be included on the label and this is just one more thing. This additional consideration is a benefit and complication to the average consumer because more information is beneficial (you know more about what your drinking), but as most people know very little about wine, more information isn’t beneficial to what I would consider the lowest common denominator, because they are looking for one recognizable name, and a bright label. So it’s all in who your speaking to I guess, things worth considering…

Made in Sonoma County

Local wineries are exploring the idea of seeking a law requiring that wines from sub-appellations also print “Sonoma County” on their labels.

//

Click to enlarge

Local wineries are exploring the idea of seeking a law requiring that wines from sub-appellations also print “Sonoma County” on their labels.

Crista Jeremiason / PD

The board of the Sonoma County Vintners voted this month to explore a “conjunctive labeling” law like the one adopted for Napa County wineries in 1987.

“We see significant potential benefit to Sonoma County wineries, grape growers and tourism,” said Honore Comfort, executive director of the trade group, which represents about 160 of the county’s wineries.

Appellations are federally recognized grape-growing regions that help consumers know where the grapes that went into wines were grown. Within the Sonoma County appellation, there are 12 sub-appellations designating various distinct growing regions, from the hardscrabble Rockpile northwest of Lake Sonoma to the wind-blown Carneros straddling the Sonoma-Napa border southeast of Sonoma.

Federal labeling regulations currently don’t require a producer of Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley or Knights Valley wines to mention anything about Sonoma County on the labels. Some do, but most do not.

The idea of pursing a conjunctive labeling law like Napa’s has been around for years, but it has gathered momentum recently as the Sonoma County Vintners, Sonoma County Winegrape Commission, and Sonoma County Tourism Bureau have worked more closely together.

Many in the grape-growing community support the concept, believing that the more the word “Sonoma” appears on labels, the greater the demand will be for their grapes.

“If we had Sonoma County on every label, we’d probably have 100 million faces on retail shelves and wine lists,” said Nick Frey, president of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. “That presence would build our brand equity, much as Napa Valley has built their brand equity for the past 20 years.”

In 1989, in an effort to better market their already esteemed wine region, Napa Valley wineries supported passage of a state law requiring “Napa Valley” to be printed on wine labels from the valley’s sub-appellations.

As a result, today a Robert Mondavi cabernet sauvignon from the Oakville American Viticultural Area, located between Rutherford and St. Helena, can print Oakville on the front label, but it must also be followed by Napa Valley.

On such a label, the words “Napa Valley” must be no more than 1 millimeter smaller than “Oakville.” The law is often cited as a significant step in Napa’s evolution into the nation’s most well-known wine region because it demonstrated Napa wineries’ willingness to work together to promote themselves.

While Sonoma County has long been the second-best-known wine region in the nation behind Napa, it never sought to follow its rival’s lead, preferring instead to emphasize the county’s laid-back attitude, independent spirit and diverse growing regions.

But some believe the rise of separate grape-growing regions within the county runs the risk of diluting Sonoma’s identity.

“Our market research suggests that when you get outside Sonoma County — you don’t have to go very far — and people don’t really understand AVAs and their proliferation,” Frey said.

A new study further bolsters the idea that conjuctive labeling would have significant benefits for the county, Comfort said.

“From what we have seen so far, it looks like it is the right thing to do,” Comfort said

She declined to share the research, saying she preferred to present it to winery officials privately over the next month to help gain consensus in favor of the move. The results of the research and input received from wineries will be jointly presented at the separate annual meetings of the vintners and growers on Jan. 20 and 21, she said.

“Between now and then, we’ve got a lot of work to do,” she said.

While the research appears positive, the vintners group wants feedback from its members to help them decide whether to move forward, she said.

“We’re very much in the listening mode,” she said.

One of the likely concerns will be objections from the three viticultural areas that already have Sonoma in their names — Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Valley and Sonoma Mountain.

Tom Hinde, president of Cazadero-based Flowers Vineyards and Winery, said the winery only uses Sonoma Coast on its sought-after chardonnay and pinot noir. Adding Sonoma County to such a label seems unnecessary to him.

“I personally think it’s duplicative,” said Hinde, who sits on the vintners’ board. “But I also feel that you need a conjuctive law that is free of exceptions.”

Carving out exemptions for those three appellations would potentially be even more confusing, Hinde said.

“I expect there will be vibrant debate around it,” he said.

Additional concerns likely will revolve around the cost of changing labels, the space needed on the already crowded labels for additional words, and the general opposition from those who “don’t like to be told what to do,” Frey said.

Implementing the concept would require changing state law. In addition to Napa, Paso Robles is the only other wine region to pass such a law. It did so in 2006, a move industry leaders there at the time called a “no-brainer.”

Chris O’Neil, owner of Russian River Vineyards in Forestville, said he’s happy to support Sonoma County, but doesn’t want a new law to detract from the winery’s strong identification with the Russian River Valley.

If it makes sense for Sonoma County, that’s fine with him, but he’d hate to see Sonoma just trying to emulate its exclusive neighbor to the east.

“I question whether we as Sonoma County really want to follow Napa Valley’s lead,” he said.

	Karl Wente, Wente Family Estates, Livermore, San Francisco Bay As a fifth generation winemaker, I’ve been fortunate to inherit a family legacy that embraces the fusion of tradition and innovation. Each generation has contributed major advancements to our operations while recognizing that part of our continued success is letting the next generation step up and use shared experience as a guide forward.
	Mike Heringer, Heringer Estates Vineyards & Winery, Clarksburg Being the sixth generation Heringer to farm in Clarksburg, growing up and working on our family farm since I was 10 years old, I have come to appreciate what the generations before me have had to endure over the years to keep our small family farm viable in the constantly changing California agricultural climate. I am proud and honored that through premium grape growing and winemaking I have been able to evolve our operation into something that has the potential to sustain this farm for the next generation if they choose.
	Kathy Benziger, Benziger Family Winery, Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley There are so many things to love about working at our family’s winery, but one of the things that excites me most about my current role is mentoring the next generation (the third generation) and cultivating the enthusiasm and passion about winegrowing that has been here at Benziger from the beginning
	Warren Bogle, Bogle Vineyards, Clarksburg Growing up in a family business I feel it is our responsibility to build upon the contributions of our grandparents and parents. You don’t have to have motivation for something you love to do, want to do and were raised to do. I truly believe it’s in your blood. Bogle is a brand to most people but to us it is our name.
	Jason Smith, Paraiso Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County The beauty of the second generation coming to work at Paraiso Vineyards was that it was never expected. My parents sent us away to college to explore and decide whatever path that we wanted to choose…in the end it was my own decision to come and work in the family business, making it my own passion and not just that of my parents.

	Alan Viader, Viader, Napa Valley I grew up on the Viader property and have been exposed to this rare terroir my entire life. Every time I’m tasting the wines or creating blends it’s very important to me that it gives me a sense of place. I think a wine needs to be balanced, but that could mean balanced for aging or balance for drinking now. It all depends on what you want people to experience when they drink your wine. I tend to pick sooner and at lower brix, leading to lower alcohols. I want my wines to age a few years. I would love to have my grandkids open up one of my wines in 50 years and have it still be drinkable.
	Clay Mauritson, Mauritson Family Winery, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County My family has owned and farmed our Rockpile property for six generations. The unique qualities that define the American Viticultural Area, along with the diversity of the soils and exposures, allow us to produces wines of incredible character.
	Josh Baker, Edna Valley Vineyards, San Luis Obispo County Making balanced wines is key to showcasing the idea of “terroir” to wine lovers. Our Estate Chardonnay is a perfect example.  My aim in creating this wine was to harness the minerality of the site and the concentration of the 35-year-old vines. There isn’t a better expression of true Edna Valley fruit on the market.
	Sarah Cahn-Bennett, Navarro Vineyards, Mendocino County Navarro has historically specialized in Alsatian varietals and Pinot Noir. I try to concentrate on what the season and grapes offer each unique year, and also where I think I can really change the quality of the wine; in the vineyard.  As well as managing Navarro’s vineyards, I am managing a new planting down the road from Navarro in Boonville.  The vineyard was designed to integrate Babydoll sheep for as many as 10 months of the year.  As well as growing Pinot Noir, Pennyroyal Farms will be growing Sauvignon Blanc because it does well in the warmer end of the Anderson Valley.  My plans are to make a New Zealand “Savvy” style wine with an Alsatian twist.
	Nick de Luca, Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyard, Santa Ynez, Santa Barbara County Honest winemaking is nothing more than servitude to the vineyard. Thus, as my vineyard evolves, so does my winemaking. The process has been an exercise in negative space, learning to discard unnecessary techniques and to eschew new technology.
	Andrew Murray, Andrew Murray Vineyards, Santa Barbara County We have focused exclusively on Rhone Varieties since our founding in 1990.  We have seen Syrah evolve from being a rare and rather obscure grape into the well recognized variety of today.  The beauty of Syrah is that it will taste remarkably different yet delicious across a broad range of soils and microclimates.  We source Syrah from some of the best vineyards within the diverse appellations of the Santa Ynez Valley.  Armed with great fruit, my goal is to nurture the grapes into the best possible wine…with current year drinkability, while still being able to age gracefully.

	Chris Pisani, ZD Wines, Napa Valley ZD Wines’ focus and commitment to organic farming and sustainable business practices have been an ongoing effort for more than 25 years. Understanding and respecting our critical relationship with Mother Nature is a “no-brainer” for us, and we are constantly looking for new ways to improve our approach to making exceptional wines while at the same time remaining responsible stewards of the land.
	Chris Leamy, Terra d’Oro/Montevina Winery, Amador County Sustainability is a constant process. Every aspect of the business needs to be constantly evaluated. Nothing is untouchable. It’s a quixotic quest to create without consuming.
	Kim Ledbetter Bronson, Vino Farms, Lodi, Sonoma, Napa counties Being a fourth-generation farmer in California, sustainable farming has become a way of life.  The eco-friendly decisions we make everyday are based on what is best for many future generations to come.
	Aaron Lange, LangeTwins Winery & Vineyards, Lodi As a fifth generation farmer in Lodi, I recognize that sustainable winegrape growing and ethical land stewardship must be the rule, and not the exception, to ensure that our community, ecosystem, and family business will thrive for future generations to come.
	Paul Clifton, Hahn Estates Winery, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County Hahn Winery is the first winery in the Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Benito tri-county region to be certified green by the Monterey Bay Area Green Business Program. With a longstanding commitment to preservation of the environment, the certification is the latest step in the winery’s ongoing efforts to promote the three “E”s of sustainability: Environmental Health, Economic Viability and Social Equity.

	Cane Vanderhoof, Miramonte Winery/Celebration Cellars, Temecula Valley Feels like a time of sea change – not common in the wine business! Old forms are being questioned, new forms are being presented. Fueled by an increasingly younger, hyper-connected and communicative society, small wineries have amazing opportunities to conceive, craft, package and market their brands in completely innovative ways.
	Cheryl Murphy Durzy, Clos LaChance Winery, San Martin, Santa Cruz Mountains Brand loyalty is very difficult in this market—and we believe that the customer wants to feel like they are a part of our family—with a connection to our winery, the people and the products we produce here. Our tactics for getting people to engage with our brand include electronic media and public relations. Instead of expensive advertising, we have invested heavily in a comprehensive, content rich web site. We drive traffic via regular emails, social media and the popular “blogosphere.” Once the customer is “engaged,” we work very hard to provide a high quality experience with our wines and at the winery to create that loyalty.
	Judd Finkelstein, Judd’s Hill, Napa Valley Social media affords opportunities for creative individuals without huge budgets to make a big impact with their audiences. A single person can now conceivably hold the power that traditionally came with hiring a PR and/or advertising firm.
	Nicholas Miller, Bien Nacido/Solomon Hills/French Camp Vineyards It does seem to me like every symposium/conference I attend now having to do with the wine industry is focused on “millennials.”  It seems like they are becoming the great hope for the wine industry’s continued prosperity.  The good news is that they seem to be the easiest generation to access.  With most members carrying PDAs or iPhones, they are just a Facebook/Twitter/blog away from being reachable almost anywhere they are.

About Wine Institute
Established in 1934 and celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2009, the Wine Institute is the premier voice effectively representing wine worldwide. With membership of more than 1,000 California wineries and affiliated businesses, the organization initiates and advocates public policy that enhances the ability to responsibly produce, promote and enjoy wine. Wine Institute works to enhance the economic and environmental health of its communities and the state through sustainable winegrowing and winemaking practices and a partnership with California Travel and Tourism to showcase California’s wine and food offerings.  The membership represents 85 percent of U.S. wine production and 90 percent of U.S. wine exports. Visit: www.wineinstitute.org.

About The California Association of Winegrape Growers
Established in 1974, the California Association of Winegrape Growers represents the growers of more than 50 percent of the gross grape tonnage crushed for wine and concentrate in California. The statewide association is an advocate for farmers, providing leadership on public policies, research and education programs, sustainable farming practices and trade policy to enhance the California winegrape growing business and communities. Visit www.cawg.org.

Confronted by a three-year West Coast drought, grapegrowers and winemakers in Northern California and Oregon are taking emergency measures to reduce water use. Some are pulling up vineyards and digging water-storage ponds, irrigating more efficiently and recycling wastewater, all part of an effort to comply with increasingly restrictive government water-use rules.

But with farmers, cities, state leaders and the federal government all fighting over dwindling water supplies, and with climate change threatening to exacerbate the problem, there’s no sign of relief. A lack of water could have a huge impact on the future of the wine industry.

A California mandate for Sonoma County residents and businesses to reduce water use by 25 percent and for Mendocino County to cut back by 50 percent ended Oct. 2. Local water authorities and wine industry groups say their water conservation efforts, aided by unexpected rains, met those targets. But the state water resources control board will hold a hearing Nov. 18 to determine future restrictions. The state legislature is locked in debate over a new water conservation bill.

In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, the state government has limited groundwater use in several areas due to declining levels. In some places, the state has issued short-term water use permits to allow growers to establish new vines, encouraging them to shift later to dry farming.

Grapegrowers in other appellations face even tougher predicaments. Growers in California’s Central Valley have suffered major crop losses due to severe restrictions imposed by the state. And development of proposed vineyards in Oregon’s Umatilla Basin has been stymied by the state’s ban on new well drilling there.

Experts say these restrictions aren’t going away. Increasing competition for water between agricultural, residential, business and environmental uses make such limits a fact of life.

They add that the problem will be exacerbated in the long run by reduced rainfall and snowpack in many areas due to rising temperatures. A 2006 study published by the National Academy of Sciences predicts that increases in the frequency of days of extreme heat may shrink the premium winegrape production area in the United States by 81 percent by the year 2100.

“There just isn’t enough water in the system,” said Dr. Greg Jones, a climatologist who focuses on viticulture at Southern Oregon University. “When we go into these droughts, the amount of water is not enough to do what you would optimally do to manage your vineyard.”

“Without a doubt, conservation will be a permanent way of life in this region,” said Brad Sherwood, a spokesman for the Sonoma County Water Agency.

In the Russian River Valley connecting Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, the water crisis hit home early last year when growers all pumped heavily from the river at the same time to water their vines and protect them from a severe spring frost. The resulting fish kill prompted the state to put the local water authorities on notice.

Lake Mendocino, a major reservoir for the upper Russian River Valley and Alexander Valley, was already dangerously low due to drought, so the authorities had to reduce flows on the Russian.

“We had the potential threat of no use of water for frost protection, and that would be the end of viticulture in Mendocino County,” said Sean White, general manager of Mendocino County-Russian River water conservation district. “That got a lot of people’s attention.”

White worked with growers on a crash program to develop pond storage, so growers can collect water from the river during high winter levels, use the pond water for frost protection, then replenish the ponds later from the river. The district got a $5.7 million federal grant to help smaller growers cover the cost.

Tim Thornhill, one of the growers who received grant money, is in the middle of building a storage pond on his family’s 150-acre La Ribera vineyard on the upper Russian River. He reluctantly pulled out 6 acres of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to accommodate the pond. One problem: The state is severely backlogged with permit applications for diversion of surface water into ponds. Nick Frey, president of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission, said it’s not uncommon to wait more than 10 years for a permit. Growers currently building ponds are gambling that they’ll get a permit.

Thornhill said that he’s also reduced water consumption at his vineyard by at least 25 percent over the past three years by measuring soil moisture and irrigating only as needed. “We water when the soil tells us it’s deprived,” he said. “It reduces the water we pull from the river. We end up with better balanced vines that produce better quality fruit.”

In addition, at Parducci Wine Cellars, in which he’s a partner, Thornhill built a $300,000 water reclamation system that allows him to use all the water at least twice in the winery, rinsing tanks and washing floors.

Zac Robinson of Husch Vineyards in Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, said he and his family will probably turn to pond storage, too. But this year he had to abandon 10 acres of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer that he lacked the water to irrigate. Husch has a permit to draw from the Navarro River, but the law sets a minimum amount of water that must flow below a grower’s pump. Due to the drought, Robinson had to stop pumping in July. He drew sparingly from his small pond to irrigate his vines for the rest of the season. “Some would call it dry farming,” he quipped.

He says he suffered an economic loss from not being able to make wine from those 10 acres. And the low river level has created tensions. “It does cause neighbors to look at neighbors suspiciously,” he said. “You see someone upriver pumping and you say, ‘That’s where my water went.’”

The Sonoma County Water Agency hired viticulture consultant Mark Greenspan to work with growers on improving irrigation efficiency. Greenspan conducted a 300-acre demonstration project at Hoot Owl Creek Vineyards and Alexander Valley Vineyards, near the Russian River.

He stressed soil moisture monitoring, using more frequent but less copious watering, studying shoot tips, and waiting until July or August to start irrigating. He also encouraged growers to dig holes and study their soils and root systems. Keeping vines “a little thirsty,” he said, promotes earlier ripening and flavor maturation.

The demonstration sites used up to 30 percent less water than traditionally irrigated parcels, Greenspan said. While growers are always concerned about watering enough to maintain a profitable yield, he believes he made some progress in getting them to change their strategies a little.

Even with the conservation efforts, Russian River Valley growers only averted major problems this year because of unexpected rains in February, May and June. “Those storms pretty much saved our bacon,” White said. “We were able to meet the conservation goal and also have a great crop.”

In the Willamette Valley, while there’s less of an immediate crisis, growers anticipate tighter restrictions due to declining groundwater levels. Many growers, notably members of the valley’s Deep Roots Coalition, founded by John Paul of Cameron Winery, do little or no irrigation of mature vines. And some wineries, such as Lemelson Vineyards in Carlton, are heavily recycling water for wash purposes. “Everyone I know is increasingly aware that water is not limitless in the Willamette,” said Eric Lemelson.

But not all Willamette growers believe in dry farming. “In older vineyards we think we can improve consistency with judicious use of water,” said Allen Holstein, vineyard manager at Argyle Winery in Dundee. Argyle stores winter runoff water in ponds for irrigation.

California and Oregon growers are hoping this winter will bring a lot more rain and snow due to a predicted mild El Niño event. But that won’t spare them from the long-term need to reduce water use.

“One good rainy season doesn’t alleviate the short-term drought or the larger societal issues about the needs for water,” said climatologist Greg Jones. Growers “have to look at being more efficient, and giving the vines not what they want but what they need to produce good quality and a sustainable yield.”

But with scientists predicting global temperatures to rise four to eight degrees by 2050, any solutions must go far beyond the wine industry. “You’re going to have big water problems, and the wine industry will be the least of our worries,” said Lemelson. “Hopefully we get smart and start doing something right away.”

While encountering a taste experience for the “New Americana” cuisine that San Francisco has to offer, I got a chance to try a new kind of wine.  The event was hosted by Black Box Wines. Now at first mention I thought this sounded like another one of the many “prestigious” wine labels, until I discovered, it was literally wine in a black box! and great wine at that! Constellation Wines, Black Box’s parent company have pressed forth with a new production technique, putting quality (abet young drinking) wines into a box format! The smaller than expected box actually holds (4) 750ml bottles, with an environmental carbon footprint that the other wineries can’t even touch! From a Riesling to 2 different Chardonnay’s, a Shiraz, and a Cabernet Sauvignon they have alot to offer, and if that wasn’t enough to impress an environmentally conscious wine-drinker they have something for the snobs as well. All of these wines come from appellations as well, not just some random California region of unknown origin.

The best thing about these wine’s isn’t that they are better than Franzia (which they REALLY are), but it’s because of an innovation and openness in production techniques. This has been a growing idea for some time in the U.K and in Australia, the idea of alternative production techniques. In the US it’s still hard for us to accept an alternative wine closure, much less removing the bottle entirely! But in a young drinking wine category, with a largely young drinking wine crowd here still in the US, this is a huge leap in innovation for the environmentally conscious.

Here’s a more detailed view of what they have to offer!

BLACK BOX – THE WINES

Black Box Wines produces a variety of high-quality, premium 3L box wines from some of the world’s leading appellations. Unlike most brands, Black Box is not tied to any specific wine-growing region.  The philosophy at Black Box is to seek the best value in wine, regardless of region, in order to provide the best possible quality and price to our customers. These food-friendly wines are meant to be consumed right away and stay fresh for four weeks after opening.

Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay, $31.99 (or the equivalent of $8 per bottle)
Napa Valley is one of the most famous wine-growing regions in the world. Located in Northern California, it is just 30 miles long and a few miles wide at its broadest point. Its ideal climate and soil have made the region famous for its ability to grow grapes like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. The Black Box Napa Chardonnay, sourced from select vineyards, is a complex wine featuring fruit and vanilla aromas. The wine pairs terrifically with grilled chicken and salmon.

Sonoma County Reserve Merlot, $31.99 (or the equivalent of $8 per bottle)
Sonoma County is California’s most diverse appellation.  The Sonoma Valley, near the San Francisco Bay, experiences moderate growing conditions and produces wonderful Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Black Box Sonoma Merlot is a medium-bodied wine with fresh aromas of cherries and strawberries. This wine pairs nicely with tomato-based pasta sauces and grilled burgers.

Monterey County Chardonnay, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
Monterey County is situated in California’s Central Coast and is comprised of about 40,000 acres. Monterey County is home to about 21 different grape varieties but is best known for Chardonnay, which comprises 40% of total grape acreage. The Black Box Monterey Chardonnay is a full-bodied wine with fabulous fruit aromas of pineapple and banana and spice notes. This food friendly wine is a nice accompaniment to most pasta and seafood dishes.

Central Coast Shiraz, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
The Central Coast covers about 250 miles along the coastline of California, from San Francisco County in to Santa Barbara County. The coastal areas of California are highly prized wine grape growing regions due to their proximity to the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean and a wide diversity of soils and topography. The Black Box Shiraz features fruity aromas of blackberry and cherry as well as floral and spice notes. This wine pairs nicely with braised and roasted meat dishes.

California Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
The California appellation allows the Black Box winemaking team flexibility in sourcing high-quality fruit from multiple regions throughout the state. Thus, the winemakers can target wines with specific flavor and ensure the highest quality wine year over year at the best price.  The Black Box California Cabernet Sauvignon is a full-bodied wine with aromas of black currants and hints of vanilla and toast oak. The wine pairs especially well with filet mignon and roast duck.

California Merlot, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
The California appellation allows the Black Box winemaking team flexibility in sourcing high-quality fruit from multiple regions throughout the state. Thus, the winemakers can target wines with specific flavor and ensure the highest quality wine year over year at the best price.  The Black Box California Merlot features intense flavors of plums and black cherries. This wine is a great accompaniment to lamb, pork tenderloin and beef and chicken fajitas.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
New Zealand is world-renown for producing some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc. This can be attributed to its long growing season and cool maritime climate that provides ideal conditions for grape growing. The Black Box New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a zesty wine featuring aromas of herbs and tropical fruits. This lively wine pairs well with most white meat and seafood dishes.

Delle Venezie Italy Pinot Grigio, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
Delle Venezie is part of the Tre Venezie wine region which ranks with Tuscany and Piedmont as Italy’s world class wine regions.  With a climate known for “cool nights and warm days,” conditions in the Tre Venezie are conducive to exceptional grape maturation. The Black Box Delle Venezie Pinot Grigio is a bright, well-balanced wine with juicy fruit flavors. The wines goes well with aged, mellow cheese and barbecued chicken and grilled sea bass served with fresh fruit.

Columbia Valley Riesling, $24.99 (or the equivalent of $6.25 per bottle)
This wine showcases why Washington is a premier region for Riesling.  The wine has aromas of apricot, peach, green apple, honey and vanilla.  The palate explodes with off-dry sweetness and flavors of tangerine and apples and finishes with lovely balanced acidity. Columbia Valley Riesling pairs well with Thai cuisine like chicken satay as well as grilled halibut.

So many people are hesitant to speak on this subject, for lack of wanting to make a firm opinion, or worried that there isn’t enough significant “data” to support their conclusions. “Lies, Lies, and Dam Statistics!” coined by Mark Twain, meaning data will tell you what you want to get out of it, all variables are what you input. A recent blog post by Jamie Goode’s Wine Blog recently looked at the very controversal subject of wine closures, and within days removed his original post, “Closures: Managed Risk” where he looked at wine closures.  As I was eager to jump on this subject I was irked to find someone jumped back in the blogosphere about it before me, and then days later he immediately deleted the post claiming, ”It was a ‘thinking out loud’ post attempting to put rough figures on various aspects of closure risk, but on reflection, and after some discussion, I think it’s actually really unhelpful – what the closures debate needs are more solid data points, and not more anecdote and opinion.”
THIS is how sensitive people are about closures,when they talk about them at all! There is soo many factors involved in the closure’s debate outside of the actual product; there’s the lobby’s for the cork vs. alternative closures industry, PR people on both sides, and the wineries looking to their consumer base.

So lets look at the options: The Challengers

Synthetic corks

A synthetic cork is designed to look and function like natural cork

Synthetic corks are made from plastic compounds designed to look and “pop” like natural cork, but without the risk of TCA contamination. Disadvantages of some wine synthetic corks include a risk of harmful air entering a bottle after only 18 months, as well as the difficulty in extracting them from the bottle and using the plastic cork to reseal the wine.

Screw caps

Stelvin cap, disassembled

Screw caps or “Stelvin caps” are closures made only from aluminum material that threads onto the bottleneck. They are the predominant closure used by New Zealand wineries. This can be attributed in part to the New Zealand screw cap initiative which promotes the use of screw caps instead of cork. Screw caps form a tighter seal and can keep out oxygen for a longer time than cork. These benefits aid in maintaining the wine’s overall quality and aging potential. “Extensive quality tests show convincing results: apart from protecting against cork taint, screwcaps are also beneficial in the aging of wine, particularly preserving the aromatic freshness.”

Vino-Seal

Glass-Stopper compared with corkstopper

Vino-Seal, or Vino-Lok, is a plastic/glass closure released by Alcoa. Since its introduction into the European market in 2003, over 300 wineries have utilized Vino-Seal. Using a glass stopper with an inert o-ring, the Vino-Seal creates a hermetic seal that prevents oxidation and TCA contamination. A disadvantage with the Vino-Seal is the relatively high cost of each plug (70 cents each) and cost of manual bottling due to the lack of compatible bottling equipment outside of Europe.

Zork

A bottle of wine sealed with a Zork

Invented by Conor McKenna and developed by John Brooks in Adelaide, South Australia, Zork is an alternative wine closure that seals like a screw cap and pops like a cork. The Zork closure consists of three parts; an outer cap providing a tamper evident clamp that locks onto the European CETIE band of a standard cork mouth bottle, an inner metal foil which provides an oxygen barrier similar to a screw cap, and an inner plunger which creates the ‘pop’ on extraction and reseals after use.

Crown caps

Crown cap closure on a sparkling wine.

The traditional crowned bottle cap has been used in the sparkling wine industry as a closure during the bottle fermentation process (méthode traditionnelle). Normally the cap is replaced with a cork before shipping, though recently some producers are releasing wines using the crown cap as their closure. The crown caps provide a tight seal without risking cork-taint. Although easier to open, crown caps eliminate part of the ceremony and mystique of opening a sparkling wine.

The Contender

A cork stopper for a wine bottle

Natural cork closures are used for about 80% of the 20 billion bottles of wine produced each year.  After a decline in use as wine-stoppers due to the increase in the use of cheaper synthetic alternatives, cork wine-stoppers are making a comeback and currently represent approximately 60% of wine-stoppers today.

Cork is a suitable material for use as a bottle stopper. Because of the cellular structure of cork, it is easily compressed upon insertion into a bottle and will expand to form a tight seal. The interior diameter of the neck of glass bottles tends to be inconsistent, making this ability to seal through variable contraction and expansion an important attribute. However, unavoidable natural flaws, channels, and cracks in the bark make the cork itself highly inconsistent. In a 2005 closure study 45% of corks showed gas leakage during pressure testing both from the sides of the cork as well as through the cork body itself.

Since the mid-1990s, a number of wine brands have switched to alternative wine closures such as synthetic plastic stoppers, screwcaps, or other closures. Screwcaps are often seen as a cheap alternative destined only for the low grade wines. These alternatives to real cork have their own properties, some advantageous and others controversial. For example, while screwtops are generally considered to offer a trichloroanisole (TCA) free seal they reduce the oxygen transfer rate to almost zero, which can lead to reductive qualities in the wine. TCA is one of the primary causes of cork taint in wine. However, in recent years major cork producers (Amorim, Álvaro Coelho & Irmãos, Cork Supply Group, and Oeneo) have developed methods that remove most TCA from natural wine corks. Natural cork stoppers are important because they allow oxygen to interact with wine for proper aging, and are best suited for bold red wines purchased with the intent to age.

So here are all the options for wine closures with more to come, no doubt, in the future. The follow up to this post will look at those original issues of: corkage/ TCA taint, oxidation, and aesthetic appearance.